I used basic handyman skills and a few simple tools to make my foreskin restoration kit out of common household and hardware items. There were also a couple of things that needed to be sewn, which I did as well.

Many men ask me how I went about creating my kit. After warning them about the dangers of Restoring and insisting that they do not take me as their mentor or role model, they still want to know. An explanation of what I did follows. I makes no claims about the safety or success of the equipment I used during my restoration, other than to say I am very proud of my new foreskin and that I suffered no injury throughout the process. Nothing I have written here should be taken as advice or recommendation. The information is purely for the interest of readers and not intended to be used as instructions.

When purchasing my equipment safety was my major priority. I knew that tight fitting equipment was bad and furthermore that some materials may cause skin irritation. Fortunately I was able to find items that were safe for me to use and which performed very well.

I was very conservative when purchasing Retainers. They come in a range of sizes and I knew that serious harm could be done to my new foreskin if I used one which was too tight. Anything that constricts blood flow runs a huge risk of causing harm, (see the "Dangers and First Aid" page). I purchased a range of sizes to find the one which was the safest and most effective. Unfortunately none of the hardware stores I visited had fitting rooms so I had to take the Retainers home to try them...

Anyone interested in reading how I determined the correct size of Retainer to use should read the "Retainer sizing" page. I also tried out both types of Restorer on my shopping list. One (the film canister) only came in one size (30 mm diameter) - but the other (soft latex) came in a wide range of sizes - I had decisions to make. Follow along in the Restorer sizing section.

Punch a 12mm (1/2") hole in the base of the film canister

Firstly remove and discard the canister lid. Then place the canister over the wooden rod, and either stand the wooden rod on a solid surface (e.g. a concrete step) or secure it in a vice.

Hold the hollow punch in position on the centre of the base. Hit the punch firmly with the hammer taking care not to hit thumb! Do not use excessive force as the plastic base is thin and injury can occur if care is not taken.

Repeat the procedure on the second canister

Only one is required for restoration, so one can be a practice one, or if it turns out OK, it can be a spare.

Finally check the rim (at the opposite end to the hole I just made). Carefully run my fingers all around the lip of the canister to ensure it is perfectly smooth. If the plastic has been roughed up during the punching process use sand paper to smooth the rough parts. Use a very fine sandpaper or else it will turn out rougher than when I started.

The clips

Dismantle the paper clip.

Gently remove the two silver wire parts of the clip and throw the black part away. The silver wires can now be used as Retainer clips.

Only one Retainer clip is required for Restoration so keep the second one as a spare.

The tension bands

Take the elastic and make a small loop at one end about 35mm (or 1 1/2") long. Check that the loop is large enough to easily thread the other end of the elastic through once it has been sewn in place.

Sew the loop in place. Put the waist band on (I explain how I does this on the "How I Restored" page) and trim the excess elastic. To be on the safe side allow an extra 200mm (8").

Take the remaining elastic and make a very large loop which will fit completely over 1 shoulder (See how I wore the Shoulder band on the "How I Restored" page).

Test the fit before sewing by using a safety pin to hold it in position. The join should be approximately in the middle of the back when tensioned.

Don't forget that there is a 180° twist in the elastic forming the loop to ensure it sits flat when being worn. Note also that the join should form a "Y" shape and not be parallel (like the waist band) or perpendicular.

Sew into position. Put the shoulder band on again and trim to length leaving extra as a safety margin.

The Retainer

Either:

Take one small sock and cut a small hole in the toe sufficient to fit the tension band through. Sew around the hole to secure any lose threads if required. On it's first use pull into position over the Restorer and penis (see Step 11 on the "How I Retained" page) check and trim to size if necessary. Sew around the new cut line to secure any lose threads if necessary.

Substitutes and thoughts

Before I was able to find suitable clips I fashioned some out of narrow gauge wire, they were an OK alternative but not as good as the clips I ended up using.

Film canisters are easy to find anywhere, but they only come in one size and are not as comfortable to sleep on as the latex chair tip. My soft latex Restorers were fantastic and I don't think I could go back to plastic again. But if I had a latex allergy then plastic it would be. They certainly do an effective job and would have grown me just as wonderful a foreskin as the latex did.

One of the trickiest parts of the construction phase is getting the hole in the end of the Restorer right. Over the years I have seen ready made chair tips with holes in the end that would have been perfect - but since I started to develop restoration equipment I have never seen a single one. And believe me I have been to lots of web sites and hundreds of hardware stores. They say that necessity is the mother of invention and I know there's no stopping a foreskin that wants to grow - so I just had to learn to make good holes in the end of plastic and latex Restorers. Plastic is much easier to work with than latex, so the skill level required to make a "nice" looking hole in plastic is much less. When I got the right tools for the job the latex was much easier. If I can not get a hollow punch the hole in the end of a plastic Restorer can be made with a sharp knife (extreme care required to avoid cutting oneself) and maybe a drill bit could cut a hole in the end of a latex Restorer - but probably not a very tidy looking hole.

If I didn't have access to a sewing machine it would have been just as easy to sew the tension bands by hand. There's only a small amount of sewing required.

Fasteners are not essential and in the end I preferred to tie the tension band in a knot around the clip instead of using a fastener. It was quicker and easier than fitting the fastener. The only disadvantage is that the knot created a slight bulge - especially if I was using heavy gauge elastic, so if I was wearing clothes that could have shown a bulge so I used the fastener to keep it lower profile.

The type of tape I used was very important - probably the single most important factor. Many tapes do not hold well and will come off easily. The temptation then is to tape tighter to try and keep it in place, which runs the risk of damage and injury to the foreskin which is to be avoided at all costs. Other types of tape are too sticky and left gunky layers of residue on my foreskin which would take ages to clean off and leave my skin feeling irritated at the severe scrubbing it had just received. Some tapes are not designed for use on the skin and may cause an irritation. The tape identified on my shopping list is the one I had most success with. It stuck well (unless it got wet or sweaty) and come off cleanly, leaving only a slight residue on the restorer, and very rarely a residue on me but nothing compared to most tapes I had tried. It is a cloth tape designed for first-aid and medical use, which my skin was not allergic to.

The key to good tape adhesion is the few seconds of time it takes to firmly rub the tape onto the foreskin and Restorer. If I was in a hurry and didn't rub the tape on firmly it would almost always come off a few hours later. The tape I use is fantastic and adheres extremely well if I rub it on properly. Half my tape and Restorer slippage problems disappeared overnight when I learned to rub on properly - and it was safer too. I wasn't trying to tape to tightly in order to improve the grip of the tape.

The ideal tape width is 25mm (1"). I started off buying the 25mm tape but soon found it saved time and money to buy bulk. I would get the 50mm (2") tape and tearing it longways into two 25mm wide strips. This is easily done by unwinding about 25mm (1") of tape and ripping it (like a snake's tongue) so that I have two even sides. Firmly rub one of the sides down onto the roll again and unwind the other side - it should rip evenly along the tape as I go. Next time would use the tape on the other side of the roll so I used the whole roll up evenly.

The glide sock can be made out of any smooth fabric or smooth sock. Maybe an old pair of boxers can be cut up to provide the fabric or your local fabric shop will no doubt have a bin of "off cuts". The job of the glide sock is to stop the Retainer and penis from becoming "stuck" in the same place all day by creating a glide plane along which the Retainer and penis can move back and forth as I move around, sit, walk, etc. This is especially important if the Retainer is being worn under the underwear, directly on top of the skin. The skin becomes moist throughout the day and sticks to the penis and Retainer. If the Retainer is being worn on top of the underwear the glide sock is less important as the Retainer can move more freely.

I preferred to use an odd sock from my sock draw (of which I seem to have an endless supply). I would use a smooth rather than fluffy one so it would glide easily over my body or clothing. I also have one made out of satin which glides very well.

If you don't have the time or tools to make your own restoration kit you can purchase one here. It's sold as a novelty item and some of the items included may have slight imperfections.

Make sure you have fully read the section of Restorer sizing so you know which size to purchase.

I post out the kits with no mention foreskin restoration, NewForeskin or penises anywhere on the packaging or inside. Anyone opening the package would have no indication of its purpose and no way of finding out. The sender is me (Paul Sherriff) and I will not reply to letters from non-members.

If you do not live in Australia I am required to include a Customs Declaration when I ship the parcel. I use a lateral description of the goods as being a "first aid kit accessory pack" with a value of US$25. As all of the items could be used in a first aid kit my statement is valid.

It will be shipped next working day by express post. Delivery times vary depending which country you live in but shouldn't be more than ten days. Average times for the US and Europe is seven days.

Order your kit here Place your order here (payment processed by PayPal which is a US based company) US$39.95 inc. tax & shipping Sold as a novelty item. Restoration Kit with 25 mm Restorer Restoration Kit with 28 mm Restorer Restoration Kit with 32 mm Restorer